A Diamond's Hardness

How hard is a diamond? Can they break or chip? How do you avoid getting a diamond that would have a tendency to break?

Diamonds must be breakable, since diamonds for use in jewelry have been cut by something to get them into the right shape. How do diamond cutters cut diamonds if diamonds are the hardest substance on earth?

If we know how cutters do it, then we can avoid doing the same thing. 

It is evidently an impossible task to break or cut something if there isn't  a tool that is harder than whatever it is you are trying to cut.

Try cutting bread with a slice of butter and you'll know what I mean. 

So how do they do it? Diamonds are hard, harder than steel. What do cutters use to cut diamonds? Light sabers?

As a matter of fact that silly answer is not too far from the truth. Lasers are employed to cut diamonds.

Centuries before lasers were invented cutters had to come up with a way of shaping diamonds. They did. And this is how: they would fasten a diamond to the end of a stick, spin it and make the diamond spin very fast. This spinning diamond would make slightly off center contact with another diamond, also on a spinning stick. Once the two diamonds made contact they would wear off the rough edges of each diamond, in effect sharpening each other. This process is called bruting and is still how the initial shape of the diamond is  worked on even to this day. Maybe a little more sophisticated, but essentially the same process. 

In order to get the facets of a diamond cutters are able to cleave diamonds with a forceful blow. This is due to the fact that diamonds, though very hard, are also brittle.

Imagine a square grid of square blocks. And on top of this grid is another grid of exactly the same blocks. Keep imagining layer upon layer of blocks, until you have one giant cube.

This is how the carbon molecules in a diamond are arranged. They are in neat and very perfect rows. This makes them very hard. But if you hit them right on one of the rows, you could dislodge an entire section.

When choosing a diamond for a ring, avoid diamonds that have a mention of a "feather" in the grading report, or diamond certificate. Feathers may sound harmless enough, but it indicates that the diamond has suffered stress along that section, or row, of molecules. That has weakened it in that area and another strong shock to that spot could cause the diamond to fracture or chip.

Send me a message if you want help in finding a nice diamond with excellent quality characteristics.

The Emotional Factor Involved In Buying a Diamond Ring

Buying diamonds can be a risky venture. Why? Because diamonds differ in value based on a range of factors. A bigger diamond isn't necessarily a better choice. If you are not familiar with the various kinds of diamonds available you'll be glad someone is there to guide you through and recommend the best options for you. A good diamond salesperson will not only consider your budget but will make you aware of other factors you need to think about as well such as the style of the setting and the durability of the ring design. Without a comprehensive diamond education you can only rely on the expertise of the salesperson to help you make the best choice for you. A knowledgeable and caring salesperson will be able to guide you through the buying process. This is very valuable, and one of the reasons many people still go to local jewelers even though it is possible to get some pretty decent discounts online. Those who do buy online have to educate themselves, yet very few people will take up a study course just to prepare themselves to buy something that they will only buy once in their lives. Even when buying at a jewelers, this lack of knowledge can be , and has been, exploited by unethical merchants.  If you are unsure about what the various diamond terms mean then the chances of getting ripped off are considerably higher. Due to the wide variety of options one is faced with it is possible to get hoodwinked by unscrupulous sales people. This is why the first and foremost consideration when buying diamonds is to look for a reputable dealer. Ask friends and family if they have had any good (or bad!) experiences. This is going to help you immensely in working out where to buy your diamonds. I should add that even the most knowledgeable people, who are practically diamond experts, have been scammed by devious dealers. So getting educated about diamonds is still not a fool proof way to avoid falling victim to a con. Everyone no matter how knowledgeable they consider themselves should go to a recommended jeweler. And make sure the jeweler is close enough to where you live so you can go back to them and talk with them face to face if needed. 

If you are far away from home when you buy your diamond you'll have no recourse once you get back home as the store is far away and there will be very little you can do. 

This is why it is highly , highly, highly recommended to only go to a jeweler within your area. It's a bad idea to buy diamonds when you are far from home, whether on a honeymoon, or any kind of holiday, business trip, or visiting relatives on the other side of the country, or worse, the other side of the world.

The experience of buying a diamond is a very emotional experience. Yes, an emotional experience. You may be thinking, What? What does that mean? Is my girlfriend going to start crying?

No. Probably not. 

The kind of emotionally charged situation I am talking about occurs from the high level of concern on the guy's part,  mostly to do with the expense, but also from wanting to please his girlfriend, and the girl's concern for his stress levels as well as the hope that he'll be happy with the diamond she likes. The guy will be going over the numbers in his head trying to convince himself that he can handle the expense, while the girl will be thinking about how nicely this diamond is going look and she will also have her friends' reactions in mind. This combination creates an interesting dynamic. Once they have narrowed the choice down to a couple of diamonds or maybe one diamond her instinctive behavior at this point will be to be affectionate toward the guy. this usually happens once she sees there is a particular diamond ring that he has shown only moderate resistance to.

Diamond sales staff, if they are good at what they do, will be aware of the little signs that a couple displays when they are ready to buy. It is going to be nearly impossible for any attentive sales person to avoid noticing the tell-tale body language, because it is repeated so frequently by the many couples who come in to the store with the intention of buying.

Emotions can shut down our logical thinking, and usually do. At this stage many people really can't focus on a lot of things. This is why everyone can be vulnerable and would be much better off going to a jewelry store that has been recommended by their friends as being trustworthy and reliable.

Naturally it is going to be hard to ignore the cost savings to be found by online jewelers. Some of the same things apply if buying online: buy from jewelers who have taken the same ethical way of operating which they applied in their brick and mortar store to their online presence. Getting recommendations from family and friends is still a good idea. Most of them would very likely not recommend buying online if they have never done so. They may even be shocked that you are considering doing such a thing. Mind you it is possible they might change their tune when they hear how much you can save. But think of this. Is it worth saving $2000 only to regret the diamond you end up with?

I know many people that would be unable to hear the rest of what I have to say once they have been told how much money they can save by buying online.  What!? I can save $2000?! That is all they'll be able to think of when they hear that. Everything else is "Yeah, yeah, bla, bla, bla. hmmm save $2000".
That is another example of the logical thinking shutting down when overwhelmed by emotion, in this case it is a kind of greed. Also known as lust. You can see why "lust" made into the catholic "List of Top No-No's" also known as the Seven Deadly Sins.

 There are ways of buying diamonds online where you won't get ripped off. Of course there are. There are a number  of well respected jewelers that sell online and have a huge and growing list of satisfied customers. I even compiled a list of recommended diamond jewelers. 

However the temptation, when shopping online is to compare only the prices. When buying diamonds there is so much more than just price. For example, how many days are you given for examining the merchandise? Many places only give seven days. I find this an unreasonable amount of time. Ten days should be an absolute minimum. It is also important to have a clear line of communication with the jeweler. Do they answer the telephone? Do they reply to emails? Is it just a one man operation or do they have a dedicated team looking after their customers? Do they offer a generous return policy?

Do a bit of homework and you'll be very glad you did.

Asscher Cut Diamonds

Gwyneth Paltrow, Jessica Alba, and Vanessa Lachley have all chosen to wear diamonds cut into the "Asscher" shape. This particular way of cutting a diamond was created by the same diamond cutters who cut the famous Cullinan I & II diamonds, Joseph Asscher and Abraham Asscher. Those two diamonds make up part of the British crown jewels. Two generations later, in 1999, Edward Asscher reworked the original design. He added 16 more facets to the Asscher cut calling it the Royal Asscher. The classic Asscher cut has the same amount of facets as a round brilliant which is 58  facets. The new design is patented and is available through the list of retailers found on RoyalAssher.com.

It doesn't look like there are any retailers listed on RoyalAssher.com that list Royal Asscher diamonds that you can browse through. The best option is to call them up and arrange an appointment. 

Asscher diamonds work well in Eternity rings, due to their shape. Arranging Asscher diamonds in a row still allows space at the stones' corners which give the prongs some space to hold the diamonds in place as you can see in this photo of a diamond eternity ring sold by BlueNile. 

The Key To Finding The Best Diamond Studs or Earrings

Question: Hi Diamond Buying Advice, This may sound like a silly question but if I get diamond studs for someone as a present what do I need to know? I don't know if the color is the most important thing or if I should be worrying about inclusions, or what. I just really want them to shine. Also what is a good size. I figure that they don't have to be as big as a ring's diamond. Thanks for your help. It is a gift for a 17 year old girl. 

John V.

Answer: Hi John V. I am in complete agreement with you about studs needing to shine. As they are at eye level they are going to be much more noticable than a ring would be most of the time.
And diamonds are just remarkable when they really sparkle and shine. There are a couple of things that when combined together make for a magnificent combination.

First let's start out with the "Who".
Who is going to be able to provide you with something that is outstanding. If you get your diamond from someone who is very meticulous and extremely selective in the diamonds they will even begin to work with, then you have a great start. Brian Gavin Diamonds is one of the most fastidious diamond cutters. His attention to detail is simply unparalleled. His selection process is extremely particular. The quality he demands from his providers is known throughout the industry. That is just the start. From there he applies his signature cuts, which just transform a beautiful stone into an incredible work of art. Every time I see a Brian Gavin Diamond I see a work of perfection.
Nest we may focus on the question of "What". 
What are the specifications? If you are getting a Brian Gavin Diamond you already have a high quality work of art. And we can ensure that within that range we are getting the best of the best. So we choose a diamond which has very little to no coloring. The closer to D on the color scale the better. That means we first see if a D color is available then E, then F, then G, and so on. However try not to go past H, if you really want the clearest sparkle and fire. 

The Truth Studs


See the Truth Stud Earrings here:

http://www.briangavindiamonds.com/diamond-earrings/studs/truth-studs-14k-white-gold-5773w14

In regards to shape and size Brian Gavin's experts say: 

Generally speaking, for any shaped face, round brilliant diamonds are a great choice for a stud earring. They’re a classic. Broader faces may also wear the more square shape of a princess cut diamond. In any case, the size of the diamond should harmonize with the size of the wearer’s earlobe. Larger is not necessarily better. A well-cut, high-performing stone is always preferable to ensure the greatest brilliance and the best value.

If you choose a Signature Hearts and Arrows from Brian Gavin Diamonds I will have to warn you:

You may never buy a diamond from anyone else but Brian Gavin Diamonds ever again.

Here are the Hearts and Arrows: 

http://www.briangavindiamonds.com/diamond/brian-gavin-hearts-and-arrows/

The process is to choose a diamond, and then continue shopping and choose a set of studs. (or the other way around works too)

On the Heart and Arrows page, once you click on Search Now you'll see a slider which shows what sizes to display. Slide it a little to the left so it shows some sizes smaller than 0.6 ct. You may like to choose between 0.35 ct and 0.50 ct. as those sizes are not too small, not too big.

Can You Recommend A Wholesale Diamond Seller in Antwerp?

Question: Hi Diamond Buying Advice, 

I am keen on investing in diamonds. Where can I find wholoesale diamonds at good prices? I want to include diamonds as a small part of my overall portfolio. If Antwerp is the capital of diamonds how do I go about finding the best place there? I know there are a lot of diamond sellers there. I will be going to Belgium later this year. Thank you for your help with this.

FREDERIC

Answer: Hi Frederic, 

This is the [address and company name and contact number] of the wholesaler in Antwerp. Please let them know that I referred you.

[Note to readers: please email me directly for those contact details, see above right for my email address, TS]

Here are a few comments for those interested in buying diamonds as an investment. You must get the diamond wholesale. Adding the diamond to a ring setting adds unnecessary cost, and this makes it take longer to appreciate in value. 
Diamonds have not always appreciated in value every single year. 1 ct diamonds increase in value 2 to 4% per annum. Large diamonds (5 ct) sometimes increase in value 15% in a single year. Fancies (colored diamonds) have been highly sought after this year and have also enjoyed good appreciation. As diamonds have been harder and harder to find they are becoming scarce. It seems inevitable that they are going to increase in value.

As with any investment you make the money when you buy it. If you get in at a good price.

It is important to exercise good sense when investing in diamonds, and get advice from your financial advisor. The advice I can provide here does not take into account your circumstances and is merely given with the intent of encouraging you to do more research. 

If you have got the diamond bug and really want to invest, and have a clear understanding of the risks involved I can direct you to the best possible exchange where you can get the highest value at the best price.

Where Can I Buy a Heart Diamond

Question: I want to buy a heart diamond for an engagement ring. 

The problem is that all the jewelry shops here don't have any for less than $15000. I want to spend about $4000, can push it to maybe $4500. What are my options? I really reelf that I should be able to get something nice for under $5000. I don't have a problem buying things on the internet, but I have never bought a diamond ring before so I am not sure of exactly what to look out for.

 DH

How to find a bargain heart diamond

 Answer: Hi DH,

Heart diamonds have recently started being very popular. And yet the majority of local jewelers often don't stock them. They haven't caught on to the trend yet. It likely has to do with cost, as it's expensive to have a lot of pricy stock which may or may not sell. this is why they usually stick to the traditional round diamonds. But online dealers have managed to provide us with a very large selection, for which we are eternally grateful! When buying a heart diamond some of the same things apply as when buying a classic round brilliant diamond. The less color in the diamond, the higher the price. The better the cut, the higher the price. The less inclusions, the higher the price. So the first question you want to ask is yourself is to find out what your priority is. If size is the only priority then here is a diamond which is being currently held by James Allen: it is 1 carat! And WAY below $4000. Remember you'll need some of that budget for the setting. Shipping is free to anywhere in the world. Even if you have to pay some import tax, it sure won't come to $15000! 

 http://www.jamesallen.com/diamonds/G-SI2-Very-Good-Cut-Heart-Diamond-1509910.asp

There are a couple of things which make me recommend James Allen above all other diamond vendors. First, you get to see an image of the actual diamond you will receive. Not only that but it is beautifully magnified and they photograph it such a way as to not hide anything. That is to say they don't add a bunch of sparkle, by shining bright lights on the diamond as they are photographing it. This is very useful for examining the diamond, even though it doesn't look like as sparkly in the image. 

How Much Should I Spend On a Diamond Ring?

Hi Diamond Buying Advice, 

How much do I need to spend on a diamond ring? I am a little worried that if I spend a lot on this that it won't really be a good idea. If we get together we might need the money  to start getting other stuff too. What do people usually do? I don't want to be a cheapskate and just get a fake diamond. I will get something decent, I sort of think that it shows I am committed, you know. Also I am worried , let's say worst case scenario she wants more time to think about it, that ring, if she doesn't accept it, it's kind of expensive and I'm going to be kinda stuck with it.

LJ


Hi there LJ, 

1 carat diamonds are often a goal as many people find them to be the perfect size. The amount you spend (if it is a 1 carat diamond) depends on the quality of the diamond.

It is good to be a realist, even when caught up in the swirls of emotion and romance. The amount you spend on a ring is entirely up to you and it's only sensible to spend whatever you feel comfortable with and it is something you can manage. Jewelers find that a lot of people still spend the same amount as two months' salary on an engagement ring. This is why you will find some people spending $4000, and others $7500 or more.

Here is a little secret which can help you not worry about being stuck with an expensive ring. If you buy from a place that has a No Questions Asked Money Back Guarantee then you can return the ring if necessary. 

Be careful not to buy from a place that has only a very short time in which to return it. Seven days would be unreasonable for there to be enough time to plan the proposal and have enough leeway to return the ring if necessary. The amount of time varies from 7 days to 60 days. As you can see on this list here most respectable online diamond sellers give at least 10 days.

Custom work and engraving may not be eligible for returns, so it is a very good idea to read through the return policy of whichever site you are buying from.
I know it's sweet and all to have the ring engraved, but maybe that should be saved for the wedding rings. (We did!)

Help! I think my girlfriend wants a Marquise Diamond

Question: Hi, Diamond Buying Advice,

I've been looking to get an engagement ring, but am not really sure about all the different diamonds. I have it on good authority that my girlfriend likes the Marquise diamond. Where can I buy the Marquise? Is it expensive?

R.R.

Answer: Hello RR,

The marquise shape of diamond is a very elegant shape. It is often chosen to be worn by women with slender fingers. This shape falls under the category of "fancy cut". 

The length to width ratio is quite important when looking at marquise cut diamonds. I always recommend buying a diamond with an "Excellent" cut. The key to getting a marquise diamond which is brilliant and real sparkly is to check that the following are true of the diamond.

It should have a

Color "I" or lighter

Length to width ratio of 1.80 : 1.00.

As well as a depth of 61%.

One or two percentage points variation on the depth will make almost no difference. But these proportions mentioned above will give you the most brilliance.

The number for the depth percentage is found on a diamond's grading report as well as within the search parameters on a diamond vendor's website.

The length to width ratio is not written on a grading report.

This is the way you calculate it.

Let's say you look at a marquise diamond's grading report which says:

Measurements: 10.25 x 5.75 x 3.47 mm

Press the calculator button on your keyboard (if there is one)

Type in: 

10.75 
/
5.75

= 1.782608695652174

This gives is the length to width ratio.

1.78 : 1.00

This very close to the ideal proportions, but we can look further as it's possible to find one that has proportions even closer to 1.80 : 1.00. 

Here is another one: 10.38 x 5.66 x 3.49 mm

This one gives us a length to width ratio of 

1.83 : 1.00

This one we see ends up being slightly over our ideal, so we continue our search. the next one we decide to check out is a slightly smaller stone with the measurements of 9.69 x 4.70 x 2.76 mm

We do the math: 

9.69 
/
4.70

We find that this one is actually no closer to our ideal as it has a length to width ratio of

2.06 : 1.00

It looks like the first diamond of the three we looked at was the best choice and we might go with that one.

As far as price goes, marquise diamonds are often priced considerably lower than round brilliant diamonds with the same specifications. See these two diamonds compared. The one that is slightly larger is the marquise, and yet it is considerably less expensive than the round diamond. Not everything is exactly the same, however they are both quite close to being near the top of the range with identical color and clarity. 

CARAT	COLOR	CLARITY	CUT	DEPTH	TABLE	POLISH	SYM.	SHAPE	PRICE
0.95	I	VVS2	IDEAL	62.2%	58	EX	EX	ROUND	$6,301
0.98	I	VVS2	PREM	65.4%	63	VG	GD	MARQUISE	$3,719

See these recommended diamond vendors websites for up to date prices.

What is the name of a square diamond?

Question: Hi Diamond Buying Advice,

I was wondering what you call the diamond that has a square shape? Is this a good choice for an engagement ring?

J.R.

Answer: Hi J.R, 

The shape you are talking about must be the Princess cut diamond. It is the second most popular choice for engagement rings. It does have a pretty name. This shape falls in the category of Fancy Cut, which is any shape that is not a Round Brilliant. If you get this kind of shape and want it to look very clear and sparkly choose anything with a letter designation of D, E, F, G, H or I color. The diamond labelled an "I" color would be the most affordable. I recommend to look for a diamond which also has a cut rating of "Excellent".

A diamond with a cut rating of "Excellent Cut" will make a bigger difference than choosing one with a higher color grade.

Say you have the choice of two Princess cut diamonds.

1. One is an "I" color, with an "Excellent" cut.
2. The other is a "G" color with a "Good" cut.

You'll be much happier with the one that has an Excellent cut even though it has a slightly lower color grade of "I".

Fancy Cut diamonds which, as mentioned above, are any diamonds cut into a shape other than Round Brilliant. Fancy Cut diamonds do not have a section on their grading report which mentions the Cut Grade. Fortunately most vendors mention if the cut is Good, Very Good, Premium, Ideal/Excellent.

Diamond Grading Reports issued by GIA, AGSL, or EGL are considered trustworthy descriptions. These labs give you a decent and accurate description of the diamond, though they don't all have the exact same parameters. It's good when you can view the grading report when buying a diamond online.

Here you can see which diamond vendors let you see each diamond's grading report on their website.

Some sites call the Grading Report a Diamond Certificate, though the diamond grading labs actually call them Grading Reports as well as Diamond Dossiers for stones smaller than 1 ct.