Mentions of Diamond Rings in Fiction Books

  

I have long maintained that diamonds play a central role in society and are thoroughly entrenched in popular culture. Those who think that diamonds have had their day have nothing else to replace them with. To the writer of fiction the diamond can signify many things. Coercion, bribery, generosity, gullibility, romance, kindness, crime, furtiveness, shock, confusion, extravagance, tackiness, style, lack of style, so many things can be implied in the same sentence where a diamond ring is featured. Just take a look at these sentences and see what I mean. There are some real interesting ones here.
Before I jump into the compilation (that took me all morning to put together and format below) just let me put in a plug for my article on how to choose a diamond at Blue Nile which took me a heck of a lot longer to put together.

Anyway, here is what I had time to put together today as far as mentions of  diamond rings in fiction:

 

The Tattooist of Auschwitz

Bonnier Publishing Australia
Heather Morris

..He keeps a loose ruby and a diamond ring in his bag....
..‘A diamond ring. Or would you prefer an emerald?’ ‘Oh, I’ll have the diamond, thank you,’ she says, playing along....
..The kapo’s price is a diamond ring. She’s heard the rumours of Lale’s treasure chest. The deal is struck....

Crazy Rich Asians

Doubleday
Kevin Kwan
..She had just bought a three hundred and fifty thousand dollar diamond ring she didn’t much care for, a twenty-eight thousand dollar bracelet she quite...


   

The Time of Contempt

Orbit
Andrzej Sapkowski
..One particularly bold newspaper had compared it to a starving pauper wearing a diamond ring. It was an apt comparison in these lean times....



   

To All the Boys I've Loved Before

Simon & Schuster Books for Young Readers
Han Jenny
..And there was this one veteran who lost his leg—he sent her a diamond ring!” Chris looks interested all of a sudden. “Did she keep it?”...


   

China Rich Girlfriend

Doubleday
Kevin Kwan
..Lorena zeroed in on her diamond ring....


   

After You

Moyes Jojo
..I couldn’t help noticing the enormous diamond ring cutting into her wedding finger, and wondered with a vague pang what the last months had been like for...


   

In Cold Blood

Vintage
Truman Capote
..Clutter was wearing—a gold wedding band and a diamond ring? Yet Nye was not convinced: “The whole setup has that robbery smell....


   

The Silkworm

Rowling J K, Galbraith Robert
..Little though the unknown accountant might believe it, Strike was grateful for Matthew’s mere existence, and for the sapphire and diamond ring that shone...


   

The Chance

Kingsbury Karen
..“That diamond ring you won me from the machine at Pete’s Pizza. I kept that.” “You did?” He looked as happy as he was surprised. “I didn’t know.”...


   

Hercule Poirot: The Complete Short Stories

Christie Agatha
..And if the lady likes her new diamond ring!” “And now to resume your so dramatic narrative,” said Poirot....

   

the Spanish Groom

Lynne Graham
..With an unerring eye, he reached down to select the most opulent diamond ring. 'We'll have this one.'...


   

Property of a Noblewoman

Steel Danielle
..He had listed them simply as diamond ring, bracelet, necklace, pin, without further detail, which would have been beyond his competence on the subject,...
..And in the third box was an enormous diamond ring, again with a rectangular emerald-cut stone, like the emerald....
..ring, the ruby one, or one of her brooches....
..She told her about the jewelry and trying on the enormous diamond ring. “Wow! It’s hard to imagine romances and people like that....
..He placed it back in its box with great care, and opened the box with the diamond ring next, which was even larger, and this time he smiled. “Wow!”...

   

Ladies Who Punch

Thomas Dunne Books
Ramin Setoodeh
..The camera zoomed in on Star’s glistening diamond ring, as she gushed about how hard it was to patiently wait for it....

   

Child of All Nations

Penguin Books
Pramoedya Ananta Toer, Max Lane
..There was something of his in this wardrobe: a gold and diamond ring....
..The diamond ring jumped in my pocket, piercing my thighs and demanding to be taken to Ezekiel’s shop. So Suurhof had stolen it....
..The diamond ring started jabbing and stabbing me in the thigh again....

   

Complete Works of Sheridan Le Fanu

Le Fanu Joseph Sheridan
..When I last night sate with you I observed about you a token long since familiar to me as the light — you wear it on your finger — it is a diamond ring...


   

The Morning After

Reid Michelle
..fingers where two new rings glinted in the light—one a hand-crafted, intricately woven band of the richest, purest gold, the other a beautiful sapphire and diamond...
..ring designed to match the necklace at her throat....


   

The Carrow Haunt

Black Owl Books
Darcy Coates
..But he had to go and propose with a freakin’ huge diamond ring in front of everyone. And he made such a big fuss when I laughed at him.”...


   

Sinners

Collins Jackie
..On her finger she wore a huge cluster diamond ring, a present from Charlie....
..She flashed her diamond ring and leant forward to exchange kisses, whispering in her normal voice, ‘Thank Christ you’re here....


   

Untamed

Palmer Diana
..He slid an emerald-and-diamond ring onto the third finger of her left hand. He kissed it. “That will have to do for an engagement ring....

   

Winter Street

Hilderbrand Elin
..He had walked right into the jewelry store and told Phoebe Showalter he needed a diamond ring....

Once Upon a Tower

James Eloisa
..“He has not,” Layla said, choosing another grape with all the seriousness of someone selecting a diamond ring....


   

At No Man's Command

Milburne Melanie
..‘Do I get a big, flashy diamond ring with that?’...


   

A Coffin for Dimitrios

Vintage Crime/Black Lizard
Eric Ambler
..The fat man spread out large, soft hands on one of which twinkled a rather grubby diamond ring. 'Iama citizen of the world,' he said....


   

Batman Begins

O'Neil Dennis
..He never learned the identity of his benefactor, but he was met outside the jail by a small Asian man wearing a Brooks Brothers suit and a diamond ring...


   

Unveiled

Malpas Jodi Ellen
..“I have a request,” he murmurs, before reaching across to claim my right hand, which is currently spinning my new diamond ring repeatedly on my finger....
..he asks, tracing over my diamond ring. Every defense mechanism I have flies up. “Just a ring.” Oh, this should be fun....


   

The Girl on Paper

Musso Guillaume
..Or the price tag on that diamond ring you gave to Aurore and that she never even returned to you?’ How dare he? ‘What are you talking about?...

   

Private Vegas

Patterson James, Paetro Maxine
..There was a gigantic diamond ring on her ring finger, and there was a kitchen knife six or seven inches away from her chest....


   

The Shadows

Ward J R
..And then there were the tangible representations of his exalted station: the black diamond ring on the middle finger of his dagger hand, and the dense...

The Green Mill Murder

Greenwood Kerry
..‘St Louis woman, love her diamond ring,’ sang Nerine, huskily but with great force. ‘Drag that man around by her apron string.’...


   

Silent House

Pamuk Orhan
..The time after that I had removed the diamond ring from the box....
..A year later when the jeweler came in summer and carried off my rose diamond ring and rose earrings, without telling Selâhattin I gave my pink pearls to...


   

The Sicilian's Surprise Wife

Pammi Tara
..She barely managed a gasp as the diamond ring slid in smooth and cold against her skin. Her heart slammed against her rib cage....


   

Queen of Hearts

Bowen Rhys
..Waldeck has reported a diamond ring missing. She knows it was in her jewelry case as she took it off after the ball last night....
..“Presumably this woman who had the diamond ring stolen has a maid and a locked cabin,” Tubby Halliday said. “I do hope they catch the blighter.”...


   

Dirty Red

Fisher Tarryn
..I deserved to be with him, wearing my two-carat, princess cut diamond ring. I got rid of her. For a while....


   

The Unwanted Wedding

Cartland Barbara
..Putting it down on the piano in front of her, he opened it and as he did so Honora saw that the box contained a diamond ring, which was certainly very...


   

Holy Frigging Matrimony

Chase Emma
..Then they put all of his belonging in a big plastic bag—including the two hundred thousand dollar diamond ring he’d purchased for the occasion....


   

The Heat of Passion

Graham Lynne
..‘I think that’s more the look we’re aiming for... and this—’ He lifted her hand and tugged off the diamond ring....

Watch Your Back

Rose Karen
..Karen found a diamond ring in a sewer while working for the Washington DC sanitation commission, one of the many part-time jobs she held to put herself...

   

A Bride Worth Millions

Shaw Chantelle
..‘The jewellers who sold you my diamond ring have a matching necklace on display in the window.’...


   

The Emperor's Children

Messud Claire
..He knew that she would try to make the numbers work, would frown over the papers and talk about second mortgages and selling her mother’s diamond ring...


   

Winter Storms

Hilderbrand Elin
..Diamond ring. “I want you to be my wife,” he says. “Will you marry me?” Ava blinks....


   

Rebel Queen

Moran Michelle
..Aside from a simple pearl necklace and a small diamond ring, she wore no other jewels....



   

Not Even for Love

Brown Sandra
..He looked at the diamond ring. In a voice as hard and cold as the jewel he said, “You see, Jordan....


   

The Tower of Swallows

Sapkowski Andrzej
..As usual, she was draped with jewellery – she even had a small diamond ring in her nostrils....

Barbarian Alien (Divided; Broken; Asunder; Reborn; Claimed; Forever)

Dixon Ruby
..But Georgie's watching Vektal like he's about to give her a diamond ring or some shit....



   

The Fall

McGowan Claire
..Alone with the tick of the clock, she slowly turned the diamond ring on her finger. This wasn’t right. This wasn’t how it was meant to be....


   

Greek's Last Redemption

Crews Caitlin
..Theo took the sapphire-and-diamond ring she wore—that he’d slid there himself, high on a Santorini cliffside as the wind toyed with her hair and the bright...


   

The Sex Slave's Final Punishment

Hunt Aphrodite
..Inside is a huge diamond ring. Tears come to my eyes as I look up at Max. He smiles and nods. “Take it, Gina. Please. I’m asking you to marry me.”...


   

Slaughterhouse-Five

Vonnegut Kurt
..He knew he was going crazy when he heard himself proposing marriage to her, when he begged her to take the diamond ring and be his companion for life....


   

Thrill Me

Mallery Susan
..Every now and then, she glanced at the diamond ring sparkling on her left ring finger....


   

Best Laid Plans

Brennan Allison
..The only jewelry she wore was a gold wedding band and a small diamond ring. “Thank you for coming in so quickly,” Barry said....


   

India’s Broken Tryst

HarperCollins
Tavleen Singh
..One diamond ring on her finger was worth twice as much as my meagre collection of beach house jewellery, so even the jeweller seemed to realize there was...
..Whenever my father showed us the yellow diamond ring that was believed to have been taken from the finger of one of the princes, this shameful incident...



   

Shadow Princess

Atria Books
Indu Sundaresan
..Jahanara had left on her mother a pair of diamond studs, the diamond ring that pierced her nose, twelve bangles with diamonds on each of her wrists, refusing...



   

The Bitch

Collins Jackie
..She sorted out her stacks and stacks of chips with fat hands, and Nico was once again mesmerized by the size of her diamond ring. He stood up....
..Nico watched her giant diamond ring catch the lights and sparkle invitingly. It had to be worth enough to get him out of trouble....
..I have borrowed your diamond ring -but the loan is temporary and you shall be repaid in full......
..Once inside Hal produced the diamond ring and flung it down on the bed. 'Glass -fuckin' glass!' He spat in disgust....


   

A Whisper of Disgrace

Kendrick Sharon
..Rosa stared down at the sparkle of her brand-new ruby-and-diamond ring, which had been hastily despatched to her hotel by motorcycle courier late last...

Guide To Buying Oval Cut Diamonds

Oval cut diamonds have been quite popular for use in engagement rings in recent times. Oval diamonds can look great and many people like the shape of the oval cut diamond as the rounded corners give it a more gentle attitude when compared to some of the other shapes that compete on price-per-carat.

Oval cut diamonds have enjoyed popularity since the current form of the shape was developed in the late 50's and early 60's. The shape has the same number of facets as does the round brilliant. It also shares some similarity with the pear shape diamond, as they both produce a bow-tie effect. Oval cuts are classified as a modified round brilliant with the 58 facets being arranged similarly to round brilliants.

My wife likes the oval cut diamond shape as she says that it tends to make her fingers look more slender. The softness from the rounded ends is also one of the features she likes. Who am I to say otherwise?

While there seems to be a lot going for this shape it turns out to be surprisingly difficult to choose an oval cut diamond that has high light performance.



Here are some suggestions that can help you find a great stone when you are in the market for an oval cut diamond.

    Length To Width Ratio
    Symmetry and Polish
    Understand the Bow-tie Effect
    What About Cut Grade?
    Color Guide
    Choosing the Clarity Grade
    Choosing a Setting
   

Length To Width Ratio

Once you begin searching for oval cut diamonds you will immediately notice that there are a number of different length to width ratios among these stones. Some oval cuts look slender and narrow, others look stout and fat. This means that there is plenty of room for personal preferences.

For the most part you will find that the majority of oval cut diamonds are somewhere between 1:1.4 and  1:1.5. An oval cut diamonds that is lower than that, say around 1:1.3 and it's going to look quite stout. On the other end the 1:1.5 ratios and over are considered narrow. These work well for earrings and pendants. The 1:1.4 to 1:1.5 ratio oval cut is the common ratio chosen as a center stone for engagement rings. If the ring has side stones then a ratio below 1:1.4 can also work.

Symmetry and Polish

You will no doubt have heard or read by now that the cut grade of a diamond is very important. The problem is that as of yet most grading labs do not issue a cut grade for oval cut diamonds. This makes is a bit challenging to find a well cut stone based on this aspect alone. The AGS does include a cut grade on their Diamond Quality Report. However not every jeweler has AGS graded oval cut diamonds. The most straightforward way to check for a well cut diamond is to find one whose grading report marks it as having excellent symmetry.

A grading report will show the quality, or grade, of an oval diamond's polish. A diamond's polish is very important no matter the cut (shape). This is why people place such importance on finding triple excellent diamonds: excellent cut, excellent symmetry, and excellent polish. It's the easiest and most straightforward way to find a great diamond. Even if this doesn't work for oval cut diamonds as you can't find a triple excellent oval cut at least you can find a double excellent oval diamond.

Understanding The Bow-Tie Effect

Due to the way the molecules of a diamond are arranged, diamond acts as both a mirror and a window. When part of a diamond returns all the light that enters it from a certain angle that area can look completely black. This is part of the magic of diamonds. They are very generous, giving back what almost seems like more light than they are given. In a round brilliant this can present a very attractive contrasting effect. In oval cut diamonds this presents as a dark band in the middle.

There is practically no oval cut diamond that does not have some sort of dark band in the middle. In most oval cut stones it presents as a bow tie. It's called the bow tie effect. The bow tie effect is usually preferred  having a conspicuously large dark band. Some stones' bow tie effect is minimal. However whether or not an oval cut diamond has an ideal bow tie should be balanced with its overall brilliance and fire.

Remember that just because the light is not being returned to your eye in that central area of the stone does not mean it is not being returned at all. What you don't  want is a stone that is leaking light through its sides and pavilion.

What About Cut Grade?

The shape of an oval cut diamond does not permit it to return light in a way that is comparable to a round brilliant. This is one of the reasons oval cut diamonds are 25-27% cheaper than round brilliants. AGS graded oval cut diamonds usually max out at 1 where the highest cut grade is 0. I am happy for someone to prove me wrong, but I haven't come across any AGS Excellent Cut Grade (0) oval diamonds. So don't feel like you are chasing a ghost if you don't find any AGS Excellent Cut Grade (0) lab diamonds. Or maybe do. There is no oval cut that can compete with ideal cut round brilliants.


GIA is the lab of choice for a majority of diamond jewelers. This is due to the reliability and consistency of the reports they issue. GIA does not issut a cut grade for fancy cut diamonds, including ovals. They do however include some of the important measurements which experienced diamond handlers can use to identify a well cut diamond.

Here are my general cut parameters for the best oval cut diamonds:



    Table: 51% to 64%
    Depth: 58% to 66%
    Girdle: Very thin to slightly thick
    Culet: None

 These are not hard and fast rules. Some diamond experts have slightly different recommendations.
An oval diamond can be brilliant, well-proportioned and beautiful in appearance but if you don't get a look at the diamond you can't be sure. Check out my list of places to buy oval cut diamonds online for some ideas on how to get a look at the diamond before buying.

Color Grade

A fascinating phenomenon we find in diamonds is that when they return light efficiently the color of the diamond becomes less apparent. Oval cut diamonds are the most efficient around the center area which has a similar to round brilliants. The color is usually harder to detect in the center area due to this effect. This means of course that a lower color grade, ie darker, oval diamonds are going to show distinct color phasing between the efficient area and the less efficient areas. That's not going to be an issue if the diamond is a D-E-F. Once you get past G the color starts showing more. G-H-I-J round brilliants don't show much color if they are ideal cut. Ovals from the H-I-J and lower color grades however can never look colorless no matter how good the cut because the geometry of oval diamonds will not permit it.

The Best Clarity For Oval Cut Diamonds

All brilliant cut diamonds are dazzling enough to make inclusions difficult to see.

The sweetspot is VS2, just as with round brilliants, cushion cuts and princess cuts. SI1 and SI2 can sometimes yield good results too and it can be worth looking through these clarity grades for something that looks relatively eye-clean.

Choosing a Setting

Because the oval shape does not have any pointed edges, it is not as vulnerable as cuts that have pointed edges, like marquise or pear cuts. The classic setting for any diamond is the solitaire setting.  For the best look, choose a prong setting as this allows for the maximum amount of light reflection and visibility of the diamond.

Depending on the size of the stone, you can choose a 4 prong, 6 prong or 8 prong. Of course, the higher the number of prongs, the greater the security and the more accentuated the shape, but the lower the visibility of the diamond.

Another excellent setting for oval diamonds is the halo setting. This adds extra sparkle and maximizes the diamond’s look. A halo setting also tends to accentuate the elongated shape of the diamond and sets it apart from other diamond cuts.

Halo settings are popular for oval cut diamonds, as are three stone settings. 

There are some beautiful vintage style designs around which work well too.

Some other great choices are three stone setting, side stone and pave. If you want something different for your oval diamond ring a tension setting might do the trick.

All About Step Cut Diamonds: Emerald, Asscher, and Baguette

Is far as diamonds go, alike shapes are grouped together into similar categories: first we have brilliant, then we have the step cuts, then there's mixed, and last of all rose. We may also call them families. So each of these diamond families has its own qualities and hence its own fan club. Getting the best diamond will be different depending on which fan club you belong to.

It's important to not apply round brilliant diamond buying tips to emerald cut diamond buying tips.

A Quick Introduction To Step Cuts

A step cut diamond's most notable feature are the eight lines running down the sides. These draw the viewer’s attention to the middle of the stone. The second feature of not are the stepped facets that run along the diamond's length as well as its width. These go in parallel lines, which might remind you of the steps of Meso-American temple pyramid. The diamond facets are for the most part bigger than the ones found in round brilliant and princess cut diamonds. They are arranged in such a way to resemble steps, so the name makes sense. Step cut diamonds are known for an effect called the “hall of mirrors” effect.

How Many Different Step Cut Diamonds Are There?

There are three different diamond cuts that can be categorised as belonging to the the step cut family. These are emerald cut, Asscher cut, and the lovely and delicious sounding baguette cut. Asscher cut diamonds and emerald cut diamonds are used in engagement rings more frequently than baguette diamonds. Baguette diamonds work better as accents or as a pave, or eternity ring.

 Comparing Step Cut Diamond Shapes

Emerald

Emerald cut diamonds have cropped corners and a large table with an elongated pavilion. They are known for their elegant rectangular shape.

Asscher

X marks the spot. Asscher diamonds are known for the distinctive ‘X’ visible in its table, this square diamond shape has cropped corners and almost hypnotic pattern created by the arrangement of the facets at specific angles.

Baguette

This thin, rectangular diamond has fewer facets than we find in emerald cut diamonds and Asscher cut diamond. Baguette diamonds are not usually used as a feature stone. They are commonly used as accent stones or in other types of jewelry, like eternity rings and bracelets.

What Are The Characteristics of All Step Cut Diamonds?

Stepped cut diamonds have two very specific characteristics. Firstly, step cut diamonds all have a rectangular shape or a square shape. Secondly, the diamond’s facets need to be rectilinear. that is to say they must be made up of straight lines that run parallel to the stone’s girdle.

5 Tips: Step Cut Diamond Shopping

Step cut diamonds have their own unique set of guidelines so it's crucial to not think that any and all advice will apply. These 5 tips will help you as you work on finding your ideal step cut diamond. the goal as always is to get the very best step cut diamond that is perfect just for you.

1. Higher Clarity and Color Grades  

If you don't know what the 4C's are then get yourself up to speed on any diamond jeweler's website.

Clarity is one of the most important considerations when shopping for any step cut gem. Emerald cut diamonds in particular. this is due to the fact that step cuts diamonds have a large, open table. They also give the appearance of having less facets than mixed or brilliant cut diamonds. This makes is much easier to spot inclusions. What I am saying is that the flaws in a step cut diamond will be hard to miss in an emerald cut diamond when compared to a round brilliant cut diamond. A high clarity grade is always absolutely worth it.

After a shot while learning about diamonds you will run across the statement that "cut is the most important factor". This is referring to how symmetrical and well proportioned the diamond is. Diamond cut designs are designed to make the diamond perform with the maximum amount of brilliance and sparkle. howe close the cutter gets the diamond to conform to this ideal shape is how a diamond is graded in terms of "cut". Grading laboratories don’t actually assign cut grades to step cut diamonds, as there is too much variation possible. what we have to look for then are the polish grading and the symmetry grading. If together, polish and symmetry, are excellent and you have a top clarity grade clarity you will have a pretty good idea of the diamond's quality and brilliance. So choose step cut diamonds that have Excellent polish, Excellent symmetry and a clarity grade of VVS2 or higher. This combination will give you the most sparkle.

Many diamond jewelers do label their listed step cuts with a “Very Good Cut” or “Good Cut”  grade by checking the grade of the diamond's proportions, symmetry, polish. This can help a great deal, though remember that a cut grade assigned to any step cut diamond is only a general guide, and not the opinion given by a diamond grading lab.

2. Step Cuts Are Excellent For Vintage Engagement Rings

If you are looking for a vintage-inspired or antique style of jewelry, step cuts will give you an authentic look.

The Asscher diamond was a shape that was designed by a man called Joseph Asscher in 1902, and while it has always been a rare, unusual choice for engagement rings, it soon gained popularity among elite fashion circles; one of the most famous Asscher cut diamonds in the world is insanely large emerald cut diamond known as the Krupp, a staggering 33.19-carat gem purchased for Liz Taylor at the cost of $305,000 in 1968 by her husband Richard Burton.

Emerald cut engagement rings reached the peak of their popularity in the mid-20th century, boosted by being the choice of stars such as Grace Kelly and Elizabeth Taylor (she wore a lot of diamonds). In recent times, the emerald cut diamond has returned into the spotlight. Well known personalities such as Beyonce, Amal Clooney, and Angelina Jolie are some of the well known examples of people that have enjoyed the elegance of the emerald cut.

 3. Step Cuts Will Save You Money

In terms of popularity, mixed and brilliant cut diamonds such as round, princess and cushion are continually best sellers. As demand for other diamond shapes increases, their prices will reflect this popularity. In turn, less popular shapes like step cuts hopefully come down in price. When you are shopping for a step cut diamond, compare prices with a round cut.
The cost per carat is not necessarily higher as the market fluctuates and the law of supply and demand dictates the price level.

4. Baguette Diamonds Are Used For Accent Stones

Baguette diamonds are a thin, rectangular cut that you will most often see as accent stones in an engagement ring or in fine jewelry. The cut of a baguette diamond is extremely shallow, which means that it doesn’t reflect as much light as other diamond shapes. As explained in the Diamond Cutting 101 post, little-to-no light reflection means little-to-no sparkle. So, a baguette diamond is better used as an accent piece for a brilliant or step cut center diamond, rather than being a center stone by itself. The three-stone engagement ring below features an Asscher center stone with two baguette diamond accents on either side.
You can add more sparkle by combining baguette diamonds with a brilliant or mixed cut diamond. Flank a cushion or princess center diamond with baguettes to create stunning contrast.
princess cut diamond with baguette side stones

5. A Step Cut Diamond Will Turn Heads

Last but not least, there’s no denying that an unusual diamond tends to draw the eye. When you purchase step cut diamonds in today’s market, you are choosing a less conventional and more unique shape than most of your diamond buying peers. If you opt for an unorthodox diamond shape like a step cut, don’t be surprised if people do a double-take when they glance your diamond.

Understanding ASET diamond imaging

If you spend a bit of time checking out different diamond jewelers' websites you will eventually come across an image called an ASET image.

How to Read A diamond ASET Image

These images are created by a small reflector tube that has colors painted on the inside. As the diamond gathers light it returns light from different angles from its surroundings.

As high quality diamonds are competing for the top spot the ASET tool is valuable for determining with great precision how much better one diamond is to another. Diamonds with above average fire and brilliance are highly prized. Since the level of brilliance is a little difficult to protray over the web the ASET is one of the best tools to show how a diamond is performing.

ASET =  Angular Spectrum Evaluation Tool.

The ASET was designed by experts at the American Gemological Society (AGS). The idea was to show clearly how a diamond handles light. ASET is now the tool that provides one of the most quantifiable results on diamond light performance. A jeweler or gemologist can use the ASET to demonstrate the light performance of a diamond. It's a great way of understanding the difference between different proportions.

ASET images

An example of several ASET images


ASET images are made up of the three colors that are reflected from the interior of the little ASET tube: red, blue, and green. These colors show how the light passing through a diamond is returned to the eye. Diamond facets have the amazing properties of acting as both windows and mirrors. Different angles of light collection by the diamond are shown in the image as different colors. The red color is the light collected from the higher angles, essentially the light collected from above. Green indicates returned light from lower angled light sources. Blue sections represent areas of contrast, these are the areas usually blocked by the head of the viewer which causes an effect called obscuration. As high contrast in diamond is seen to be a favorable trait strong blue arrows indicate that the diamond has good contrast.

ASET as a concept is not complicated. You look at a diamond through the top of a semi-sphere that has been painted with colors that mark the angular ranges. When the light is gathered by the diamond (instantaneously, by the way) the diamond has the different colors showing through the diamond. It will indicate areas of the diamond that are gather light from different angles as well as show the areas that are not  returning light.  This is called light leakage. Because light from different ranges above the horizon has different attributes, the ASET tool can provide important insight about how the diamond handles light. Easy? Good.

Eco friendly diamonds

Q: Dear Diamond Buying Advice, Can you help me find an eco friendly solution to buying a diamond? First off though, great blog! thanks for providing some interesting articles about diamonds and I have been reading through your advice to other people. I want to very soon buy a diamond but don't want to support the mining and digging up of the ground soil everywhere. What is the best way to go about buying a diamond without ruining the earth? I wish to propose with a diamond but am wondering if fabricated diamonds are all that good. What is your opinion about this? I know I could just not bother with a diamond ring but that doesn't sit right with me. I hope I am making sense. Is there any point in me looking at made diamonds that are not dug from the ground? I don't mind buying over the internet, I just don't want to be sold a dud. What are the things I need to consider when buying a made diamond? Thanks in advance for your help with this. I look forward to hearing back from you when you get a chance. Hopefully soon as I want to get this sorted and will hopefully have come to a decision within the next couple of months. (Christmas at the very latest, lol!) But yeah, whenever it's convenient. By the way my budget is $5000. that has to include the ring setting too. So I guess like $3500 to $4500 for the diamond and the rest for the diamond ring setting. I am in the US so don't have to worry about any additional import duties I guess if I buy from US companies. (I'm cool if you stretch it a bit, but I will try to keep it to $5000 total.) I am hoping for a 1 ct diamond, but I don't know if that is going to work. I heard from a friend that one carat is usually more than $5000. Ok, I hope I didn't ramble on too long. Anyway, I hope you can help me find something nice.
HH

A: Hi HH, thanks for your message. I totally get where you're coming from. I have heard of some people buying second hand diamonds in order to solve this problem. As a matter of fact I read an article yesterday about a couple who found a vintage store that sells good quality vintage diamonds (this was in Sydney Australia). They went there and had a look at the diamond rings on offer. They tried on a few and found a perfect fit which the woman decided was in the style that she really liked. A second option is to look at laboratory grown diamonds. The diamonds that are being produced now are identical to mined diamonds and some companies even source their electricity from renewable sources. I know of one diamond creation company that is even 100% carbon neutral. If you are wondering where to buy laboratory grown diamonds I maintain a page on one of my websites that lists the places I consider to provide excellent value and believe you will be very happy with the service they give.
see https://mytop10diamondwebsites.com/lab-created-diamonds/ Something that very few people realize is that laboratory grown diamonds are identical to diamonds  that are dug up from the ground. Just yesterday the FTC in the United States ruled that lab grown diamonds are diamonds. It said that created diamonds should not be referred in to marketing as synthetics, but rather as lab made diamonds, man made diamonds, or even foundry diamonds. Now just because diamonds can be grown in a lab does not mean that you can find 10 carat lab grown diamonds. The big diamonds are very difficult to make in the lab just as they rarely form in the earth. Big diamonds are rare and will continue to be rare. Most of the diamonds that are made, luckily enough, are just the right size for engagement rings. Oh and if you have a look at the prices of the companies I listed you will find that you will easily be able to afford a 1 carat diamond with a very nice ring setting. Now you may not have as much variety among lab grown diamonds, but fortunately there are less unlovely ones among the available range. It's quite a bit easier to hunt for a good stone as they usually don't have a lot of visible inclusions as you would find in the more included mined diamonds. Most of the inclusions I have seen in laboratory made diamonds did not severely affect the beauty of the diamond. Though to be honest I have not looked at nearly as many lab grown diamonds as I have natural mined diamonds. Anyway, all the best with your diamonds hunting. Let me know how it goes.
-Thomas Stevens
Diamond Buying Advice

Are these 2ct+ diamonds eye clean and good value?

Q: Are these 2ct+ diamonds eye clean and good value?

 I think I have narrowed my search down to the below two:

2.06 H SI2

https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/round-cut/2.06-carat-h-color-si2-clarity-excellent-cut-sku-4481584

2.08 H SI1

https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/round-cut/2.08-carat-h-color-si1-clarity-excellent-cut-sku-4344990

Would both of those appear eye clean? How about the twinning wisps - is that something to worry about? They seem to be white and fairly small, even though they go through the table.

In terms of setting, would putting this in platinum cause any issue?

thanks!!

A:Yes, they're eye clean IMO.

Twinning wisps only become a major concern if they encompass more than a few % points of the diamond. As long as they aren't too close to the girdle it's usually fine.

Will look good in platinum.

Q: Thank you!! What do you mean "more than a few % points of the diamond" ? Do you mean specific locations (e.g. girdle) ?

A: Twinning wisps and feathers are breaks in the diamond. If they are too big they threaten the integrity of the stone. If they are near the girdle they risk getting larger if they are subjected to shock. 

 email your questions to:

Could you please provide me with your opinion about this oval cut diamond?

Q: Could you please provide me with your opinion about this diamond?

https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/oval-cut/1.01-carat-h-color-si2-clarity-sku-4796184
Thank you so much in advance!

A: I like it.

 The inclusion on the table that is evident in the magnified image seems to be a clear crystal so it's not likely to be noticeable. Remember James Allen has a generous no questions asked return policy, but make sure to read the terms and conditions especially the last clause: https://www.jamesallen.com/guarantee/hassle-free-returns/. the cut quality seems to generate a decent amount of fire, which is real nice for an oval. I'd go for it.


Q: Thank you SO MUCH for your reply! It makes me feel a lot better about what I picked!
One last questions if you don't mind...I see that the depth is 66.90%. I think I read online on a guide that for an oval shaped diamond it's recommended a depth of 58-62% and a table of 53-63%. Would the depth of 66.90% make this less sparkly?

A: It depends on other variables such as its length to width ratio. This is one of the reasons grading labs don't want to give fancy cuts a grade of excellent or any other level because there are tiny variables that are very complex to calculate. Generally speaking a deeper cut or a shallower cut will return less light to the eye of the beholder. Since this diamond has no noticeable bowtie effect it appears to be returning light quite efficiently.





email your questions to :

The jeweler says that the stone is a natural carbonado

Q: my girlfriend and I have been shopping for engagement rings, and found one that we're quite a fan of. The ring features a non-traditional center stone from a small husband-wife jeweler.

The jeweler says that the stone is a natural carbonado, and seems reputable; that said, I'd like some degree of confirmation that this IS indeed a carbonado. I asked about getting a certification for the stone, and the jeweler was fine with it, but said that it would require them to extract the stone and then re-make the ring.

As it's a one-of-a-kind piece, I'm a bit hesitant to do that in case it alters what we love about the design. Are there any ways, working with the jeweler or an outside party before purchase, to confirm the authenticity of the diamond without removing it from the ring?

A: It may very well be a Carbonado, but what gives the jeweler the confidence that it is one? When they bought it they would have to have been reassured that they were getting the real deal.

The International Gem Society tells us that while most black diamonds on the market today are either superheated or irradiated to an almost black color, natural black diamonds do exist, though they are extremely rare. 

Black diamonds are as a rule not more expensive than colorless diamonds.

For reference see this 3 carat oval from one of the world's foremost experts on fancy color diamonds. https://www.leibish.com/black-diamonds/fancy-black-oval-31234

As you can see the above site provides a GIA certificate with their diamonds.

Without one it is better to assume that it is a treated stone. Just check amazon.com and see how much black (irradiated) diamonds go for.

Some tests can not be done , such as specific gravity comparison of the weight of the isolated stone to the same volume of water. This test only proves it is a diamond, not whether it is a natural Carbonado,

However it's up to you. What is the significance of knowing that the diamond is what it's purported to be? Satisfaction, yes. But insurance and resale value could be factors for you. Will the in-house certification cut it for those? Maybe. But GIA holds a lot more authority.

Q: This is really helpful, thanks for the feedback. This particular ring is only about $2.2k, and the center stone is 1 carat, so that's less than the cost of most colorless diamonds I've seen. As far as I can tell, they have confidence in the authenticity on the word of a sourcer that they trust.

In your opinion, it sounds like I should go with the certification?

A: Without certification you may as well buy an irradiated stone. This is what certification is for. So you can be certain.

Q: Thanks so much, that makes complete sense.

 email your questions to

Help Choosing a Cushion Cut Diamond

Q: I've been looking at 8 faceted cushions (as opposed to 4) and narrowed it down to these three. I've looked at them so much that they look pretty much the same...

any opinions?? This will be on a white gold pave band. Each diamond is around 3.7k

A: That first one looks pretty amazing for an SI1. If that's correctly labeled then you have found yourself a nice stone. The grading report usually has a bit more information on the type of inclusions than can be made out from the photo. Did you get a chance to look at the lab reports?

Q: Yeah, I have the GIA reports. Once it points out the inclusion, I can't unsee it!

Here's the report.

and here is the side and bottom views. I figure my girlfriend will never see it from the bottom, so those inclusions aren't that big of a deal.

A: Yep. But at least you know it's legit. Seems like you found a sweet deal. All the best.

email your questions to:

 

Cushion Cut Purchase Recommendations

Q: Hi, I was wondering if you could help me. I'm looking for a cushion cut diamond in the 9-10k range. Obviously if I can find something exceptional for less, I may want to put that difference into a possible three stone setting. Do you have any tips for finding good value? Can you explain diamond fluorescence?

A: The cut quality of Cushion cut diamonds is not as easy to determine from a grading report as round brilliant or princess cuts.

Browsing online jewelers that have high resolution images is a must. However if they don't display an image many jewelers will be able to send you an image upon request.

Like this one:

 https://www.briangavindiamonds.com/diamonds/diamond-details/1.130-e-vvs2-cushion-diamond-gia-5203482808

Diamond fluorescence basics:

When under ultraviolet light, fluorescent diamonds glow.

This effect looks pretty awesome in a nightclub.

In daylight, though, the glow sometimes interacts with the light that would make up the diamond's fire and brilliance, essentially reducing its sparkle.

The result is a reduced brilliance in daylight.

This does not occur in every single fluorescent diamond.

But it is not possible to be certain unless it has been previously checked.

One jeweler that screens fluorescent diamonds is Brian Gavin Diamonds. https://www.briangavindiamonds.com/diamond/brian-gavin-blue-diamonds-with-fluorescence/

 email your questions to

Fancy a little color in that diamond?

Today's blog entry will be on the subject of colored diamonds. 

First I'll run through the definitions: 

Fancy color diamonds: Diamonds which have a vivid or intense color. The hue of these diamonds can vary across the entire spectrum of colors. 

 Each colored diamond will vary in intensity and will therefore be given a classification in regards to how intense the coloring is. It will be classified under one of the following nine saturation grades: 

• Faint, 
• Very Light, 
• Light, 
• Fancy Light, 
• Fancy, 
• Fancy Intense, 
• Fancy Vivid, 
• Fancy Deep, 
• and Fancy Dark. 

The graphic below shows GIA's Fancy Color Grade interrelationships.

(see leibish.com for examples of different grades of colored diamonds)  Fancy Vivid is the grade given to diamonds with the highest level of saturation as can be seen in the chart. 

This is highly desirable, and naturally exceptionally rare.

Something else I wanted to mention is that faintly colored diamonds, or should I say, sub-faintly colored diamonds, which have less color than those with an official designation of "Faint"are unsurprisingly rather common. 

It's the colorless and the intense colors that are rare and hence their cost. Colorless diamonds are assigned the letter "D" when their color is graded by a GIA lab. A diamond with a very slight increase in color (when compared to a D) be assigned an "E", followed by an "F", then a "G" etc, all the way down to Z. Very few people seem interested in diamonds that fall between "K" and "Z". 

Fancy colored diamonds have just a bit more color than a "Z". 

X-Y-Z stones that have yellow or brown as their color do have enough color to be counted as fancy color diamonds.

Each group of gemological labs has its own grading system, but the dominating grading system is the one developed by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA).

Yellow is the most popular fancy color. It appears to have become more and more popular and a number of celebrated public figures have been seen sporting yellow diamond rings. Here are some of the people seen wearing yellow diamonds in recent years: Heidi Klum, Jennifer Lopez, Jessica Alba, Megan Fox, Kelly Clarkson, Anna Kournikova, Carrie Underwood.

Yellow diamonds stand out because they do get noticed, and they are known to be rare. About 10,000 times as rare as white diamonds.

Yellow diamonds are much rarer than white. The yellow color in diamonds is caused by nitrogen replacing carbon atoms in the diamond's molecular structure. Higher levels of nitrogen in the stone's composition results in a deeper color.

Since vividly colored diamonds are indeed rare, you will find that cutters try their best to retain as much of the diamond as possible. Another priority will be on shaping the diamond in such a way as to retain the intensity of the diamond's color. If a colored diamond has not been cut to be perfectly symmetrical it will usually be because this was a necessary compromise to retain more size rather than lop off a few more corners to get it into perfect symmetry. If you prefer your diamond to be perfectly symmetrical, keep looking. You can find them.